Short block en Greddy turbo opbouw

[BJMax]

Sorry for the delays fellas. I just finished with that crazy oil leak situation. Well as it turns out, I had fixed the problem and then created another simultaneously.
As I was correcting the oil leak, I was required to remove the oil pan...obviously...Well the last attempt to replace the silicone seal between the oil pan and the block resulted in a little frustration as the layer of Grey RTV really held up tight. I was stuck using a hammer and a block of wood to try to dislodge the upper oil pan...Another Rookie Mistake. Technique in this case would have been better than brute force.
Considering my previous efforts were much easier to deal with. Maybe 2-3 wacks with the hammer and block of wood and the oil pan would fall free. Well the grey stuff held rock solid. It took me, no joke, at least 30 minutes of hacking to dislodge it. I essentially caused damage to the oil pan...unknowingly. I went ahead with the re-install only to be disappointed with another leak. Located at the base of the original oil pan, just where I was hammering...Not exactly Rocket Science.

Well all of that is behind me now. I purchased a new oil pan and a new oil cooler, since I beat up the previous one with all of my install and removal attempts.

Ready for my BASE dyno Tune. I will try to make an appointment for this week and get some miles on this bad boy. I wish I had some numbers to share today, but I didn't come this far to disappoint. Looking forward to a very good week.

Thanks everyone for your support. I hope this thing lives up to all of my expectations.

[BJMax]

Just finished installing the upgraded waste-gate springs yesterday and boy, or boy, was that a beatch!!!!!!!!
I had to start by removing the framing support bar (below the cross-member) because the waste-gate relocation kit is such a pain in the ARSE to reach, I thought I could simply push the springs up and into place then secure the waste-gate caps back on.

Well lets not be confused about anything...the 12psi springs are NO JOKE!!! They are strong! I removed the puny 7psi stock waste-gate springs, no problem. Then I went to grab the 12psi springs...what a noticeable difference. The original springs were soft and thin, maybe 1/16 of an inch thick coil and maybe the size of a red bull can of soda. The new springs were about the size of a normal soda can and about 1/8 of an inch thick coil. It took the help of my neighbor to fasten the waste-gate tops back on. I used all of my 6ft 2" and 200lbs of muscle to simply press the waste-gate caps up into place. My arm and shoulder are still shaking from the strain it required to hold the caps up and in place. But its done.

Should have enough miles by the weekend, but not sure if I will have the time to get it tuned for this weekend.

[BJMax]

Yeah, update is I drove the 1000 miles to break it in, brought it to my tuner and had an unfortunate incident and blew the motor.
I shipped the motor back to Texas for inspection/tear down and rebuild.
Once I get it back, I will go back to my tuner and try again.
I will post up a link to the new thread once completed and with results.
Thanks for all of your support.

[BJMax]

Just waiting for my new engine to get sent up from Texas. Unfortunately I am looking at Mid-Feb. '08. Once it arrives, I plan to run NA for about 750 miles.
Then I break things down again and install the Greddy Twins along with the ProEFI, in addition to oil cooling upgrades. Once I get things moving I will give you guys an update.
There will be a happy ending!

[BJMax]

New motor is being shipped Monday 2-11-08 to NYC from Texas. Should be here before the week is up.
Just need my new EMS to get here, but I won't need it for the break in 1000 miles as I will be running off of the stock ECU and stock injectors.

[BJMax]

Well the new engine is in, along with the tranny, drivetrain and exhaust. All that is left is the top of the engine...plenum, injectors, fuel system components & intake. Shouldn't be more than a 1/2 days work and my Z will be alive once again. NA this time, but I haven't driven the car in sooo long. I can't wait.
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I learned by reading the service manual several times and from communicating with forum members here just as you are doing right now. You have to keep in mind, that if you are not putting together a stock car, the service manual is only useful to a certain point, then you have to ask for help. Example of this is if you are building a "built engine", with ARP head bolts. The stock service manual would advise of 65 ft lbs/torque for the heads and with ARP aftermarket studs, you can go as much as 93-95 ft lbs. torque. Of course if you only apply 65 ft lbs. of torque, you would be severely short changing yourself of the benefits of the head studs.

The throttle body spacer is an AAM product and it provides you with up to 3 additional ports to plug into for vacuum/boost lines. In case you need them for a fuel pressure regulator, or Boost gauge, or UTEC or whatever...

The oil pan spacer is to allow for oil return ports without having to drill into the engine upper oil pan. Thus allowing you to return the car to stock if you like without any major hassle...and the additional 1 quart of oil is added insurance.

[BJMax]

Yeah, I'm 99% done on re-assembly. The only thing I am waiting for is a bolt to support the power steering pump. I stripped the original. That bolt should be there Monday for me. Once that goes in, I can complete the install, add fluids and start her up. The anticipation is killing me. But again it is only NA. I would love to dyno the car to get a before and after. I will speak with my tuner to see if that can be arranged. I don't expect high numbers with a low compression motor, but if anything it would make for a nice comparison shot.
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The baby is up and running. Very intimidating growl. Greddy TT exhaust is much more intimidating sounding straight thru, rather than thru the turbo's.
Idling well even though she has cams.
I have to flush out the power steering fluid, since the stuff in there is foaming up. Any ideas on proper draining techniques. I could just pull a hose and let it drain, but how can I ensure that I get all of the funky old stuff out???
Need some ideas.
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500 miles into the break-in. Not enough time in a day to drive around.
I just picked up a sweet set of Stoptech BBK and now I need to wait for a brake bleeder I ordered to arrive to finish the job. I thought I could use the Mightvac to pull the fluid out, but apparently the calipers are a bit stubborn and I will have to try another technique. I'll let you know in a day or two.

Old Brakes:



New Sweetness:





Also just finished installing the new AAM Surge Tank and pump for my second fuel pump to provide enough fuel to support 700rwhp.
First pic was prior to completion...mocking it up for fitness. I re-routed a couple of lines to help keep away from the exhaust.

[BJMax]

The new motor is silk and I am just trying to be proactive. Its almost fate that brought me to this point...I get a chance to do things over a little better than before.
Fluidamper, new EMS - ProEFI, Oil cooler, Power steering cooler, Stoptech brakes so I can stop this thing, and a few other little odds and ends.
All in all it should be great.
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Just about 200 miles to go before tear down again...Ah hell, I'll probably tear it down next week...I can't wait any more...the suspense is killing me.
"Driving in a world without boost...leaves me yearning"....Almost sounds like a Geico commercial with the announcer voice-over. LOL
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Engine failure was caused by an oil starvation problem that lead to detonation that killed some engine bearings that blew bearing metal everywhere, including into the turbos. So everything had to get rebuilt...engine and turbos. That brings us up to speed.
Thanks to Julian an MRC, I got the help I needed to get the turbos rebuilt and I purchased a replacement engine from Kyle at IPP, Junior helped me to get my hands on a primo EMS (ProEFI). So I owe a lot of people thanks for there help in getting me back on my feet.
I am almost ready to give it another go. Its just about time to pull out the engine and build it back up to TT mode. Bigger and better than before.
I'll probably start a new thread once its all up and running.
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oil starvation = not enough oil. Doesn't matter where, its just not enough. Engines don't like that very much.
If you want more detail on this just PM me. This is an old issue, I have long since moved on to bigger and better things.
Thanks.
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Well I achieved my 1000 miles for proper break in and I have successfully removed the engine (& tranny) on Thursday 3/27 removed the stock exhaust manifolds (for sale) replaced them with Jet Hot Coated Greddy Turbo Manifolds, installed the rebuilt turbos (Thanks Julian) along with SS return lines from AAM. Put the engine back in on Friday 3/28.

I also decided to weld shut the coolant port coming down the passenger side to the oil cooler/warmer and go with a "standalone" oil cooler. I now use a custom mounted oil cooler on the driver side of the inter-cooler. I also installed an upgraded Stillen Power Steering cooler to the Passenger side of the inter-cooler.

I have completed 99% of the re-assembly. All that is left is to install the ProEFI and connect the sensors I purchased (Fuel & Air pressure sensors).

Once that is done the final Piece is the exhaust.
For some reason, the Greddy TT exhaust does not mate well with the SGP Downpipes. I guess I may have to clock the turbo housing just a bit to make it fit right. It apparently is only a problem on the driver side. The passenger exhaust mates up OK.
This new issue is a result of having had the turbos rebuilt. Apparently Greddy did not set them up 100% perfectly before shipping back to me. So now, I have to play around with the alignment of the compressor housing until it is perfect and the exhaust lines up.
Now that I figured that one out, I guess its just a matter of getting to it.

I managed to sell off my suspension (D2's) because my wife couldn't take the harsh ride. (great for the track or auto-X) And now that she is PREGNANT!! I have to comply by downgrading to something more forgiving. I opted for a set of BC coilovers which I hope will cure the comfort bug and allow her to ride with me...comfortably.

[BJMax]

Here are some shots of the project:


I think I'm starting to get the hang of this. LOL

Gutted:


Coolant pipe modification for oil warmer delete:



Jet Hot coated manifolds;



Rebuilt Turbos:




Caught thgis on someone else's thread (maybe Joe Kenefic) I spotted a slightly burnt Coupler for the turbo on the passenger side. Even though I wrapped it in double layers of heat wrap.


Probably got burnt from the exhaust manifold getting too hot;


This should fix that:


Nice Welding job by Crazy Don in Long Island:


New Cooler

I think it is my PS Cooler


Mocal sandwich plate installed:



Attempted Re-Entry:


Is that a turbo hiding back there:

It is:


New SGP 3" downpipe and exhaust port for wastegate hiding up top:

And driver side:


Now with Open Dump in place...Man that was a B$tch to install:




Oil Cooler Lines:


New oil Drain Plug...makes oil changes a snap:


Got rid of the UR crank pulley and replaced it with Fluidamper crank pulley:


Had to cut off about 3 inches of thin aluminum piping to make the K&N filters fit:



With the OEM Oil cooler lines now gone, I couldn't well leave the front port open, so I 'T' the coolant lines up front as shown below:


Thanks WestPak for the Idea.



Intercooler mounted - I had to adjust both external coolers to make it fit:





Thats it for now.

[BJMax]

Hey Adam, I took some time to clean things up and replaced the RTV with Teflon.



There is one less worry.

Everything looks good.
I clocked the turbos just a bit and the exhaust lined up well. I would ultimately like to eliminate the bottleneck at the junction behind the SGP downpipes...It looks horrible...from 3" down to like almost 2.5" and then 1" later back up to 2.75". I gotta get that fixed after I get this up and running.

Now all I have left to do is plug in the ProEFI (done). I already have a base map loaded by Turbo Trix. I have the MAP sensor connected (done). I have to get the wiring schematics for the fuel pressure sensor though. Its a Green wire with Blue striping, another Green wire with Black striping and a brown wire.

Looks like I need to reach out to Jason at ProEFI to figure this one out.

99.9% done and I'm ready to turn the key and fire her up.

[BJMax]

Oh, and of course I have to add fluids:
Clutch Fluid
Oil (engine)...any suggestions on amount with remote oil cooler and oil pan spacer???
Power Steering Fluid
Coolant

Then start her up.
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I got the answers to my question about the proEFI wiring so it looks like my next day off will be starting the car. WOOOHOOO!!!!
I just hope the Base Map will allow me to still rev the motor a bit. I am not too concerned about boosting it as I have been so very patient, I wouldn't want to chance damaging anything. I'll let Turbo Trix do there thing and I will wait to get my car boosting the measly 8psi for now.
Keep in mind I may want to also test out the Boost solenoid I hooked up. MuHahahaha, Muhahaha.

But I will still be nice and keep the boost low for now. At least for a couple of weeks...Then I go back for the big tune with Meth.
Muhahahaha, Muhahaha
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All wired up and ready to go. Just gotta load up the fluids, check for leaks and run it around a bit.
With the last go around of installing the upper plenum, I stripped on of the bolts on the outer edge of the plenum. Thinking about drilling it out and tapping it a bit larger, or maybe using a heli-coil...
Any suggestions?

Once that gets taken care of I need to go get 'er tuned. Looking at this Friday possibly...for the low boost tune. Hopefully.
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Pissed off because it would appear that I am experiencing the same clutch bleeding problems as Dil. I attempted to use a vacuum hand-held device to draw the fluid out of the bleed valve as I have done so many times in the past, but for some reason, I am experiencing some resistance. Not sure why, but without a clutch, I cannot start the car. So I will be persistent and try to bleed that out as best as I can.

Meanwhile I am waiting for my trusty assistant Boogie to help me out, I took advantage of replacing the coilovers with a new fresh set of BC Coilovers. I hope this will cure the wifey comfort bug without sacrificing too much in terms of performance.

They look beautiful and come ready to drop in. Out of the 30 settings, 30 being the softest, the factory sets it to 8/30 so for now I will have to try it out and see how the car responds.

I also took the liberty of installing the new SPL traction bars and rear upper control arms. While I was in there I also threw in some replacement bushings for the sway bars. You can see a little of the 'lube' squeezing out of the edges...Ewww...See below.

Here is the right Rear: BEFORE:


and AFTER:


Left Side...AFTER:


The BC Coilovers come with all of the necessary attachments for the brake lines and sensor lines...Very Nice:


Very Nice Set up. Took me all but an hour to install the coilovers.

[BJMax]

The only problem is that I stripped a bolt in the upper plenum, so I have a vacuum leak. I successfully started the car but it did not idle well. Unfortunately, the idle was all screwy, most likely due to the plenum leak,but I'm sure once I fix that, it will hopefully idle just fine.

After that, its off to Turbo Trix for the low boost tune 7-8 psi. I also installed the boost controller, so if things go well, they can go up a bit. Once I break that in, I go to higher psi wastegate springs. (1 bar)
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Well, I thought the plenum leak would be the culprit in an unsteady idle, but even after fixing it, I found that it is still very wierd. The only thing new really is the added turbo set up and the pro-efi.
Previous to all this, the car was broken in on the stock ECU and stock injectors. It ran basically...... flawlessly.
Now that I added the ProEFi with a base map, it is running like crap.
In fact I tried to drive it around the neighborhood and all of the engine lights came on (VDC, SLIP, Brake, CEL), then later the RPM's went thru the roof, blasting to 5K with my foot off the pedal. I had to ride the brake to safely get the car home. Maybe I have to hook up the O2 sensor as well. Not really sure what is going on.
I planned on driving the car from NY to NJ for the tune, but if things don't improve, it looks like I'll be towing it there just to be safe.
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Spoke to a couple of folks over at EFI and they stated that if the car is programmed for o2 sensor reading and it doesn't see a signal that it will shut down that sensor, in other words, it won't look there any more. So it would be unnecessary to bother hooking it up. I may go ahead and do it anyway, because it is a good feature to improve on tuning capabilities and the self tuning feature. I guess the primary problem right now is simply getting the car to NJ for the tune. And let them (Turbo Trix) worry about it.
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Here is how I brought it to the tuner:




Kind of makes you feel like its a race car when you see it on a flatbed.
Anyway, we'll see how it works out.

[BJMax]

Oh yeah and the unsteady idle was caused by a temporary hose I was using to replace my catch can. I used a thin hose to serve as a temporary measure between the passenger valve cover and the lower plenum and apparently it was flat and not allowing adequate air flow...yielding an unsteady idle.
Problem solved. Not an EFI issue afterall.

After several tuning sessions we have the lower end of the spectrum down solid. Start up is good, idle is perfect and the car is making decent power. I have yet to drive it even after all this time. I dropped off the last of the meth kit parts yesterday so hopefully that can be installed today and the car will be re-tuned to accommodate for the added 'fuel'.
I will then have to take the car, install the 1 bar wastegate springs and bring it back one last time to adjust the duty cycle of the boost solenoid otherwise I could be overboosting the car. (Don't want to do that!)
This can be done the same day...Friday when I pick it up. Thats 2 very long days from now.
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I don't have more feedback because I have not been in the car in almost 3 weeks. When I brought it to the tuner it was bad...took 5-6 seconds and a heavy blip of the throttle to start. I've been told its much better. As to whether or not its back to OEM start up I won't know until Friday when I get it back.
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I got the car back and have been trying to get as much seat time as I can for the last week, unfortunately the weather in NY has not been so cooperative.

First impression..I need my tuner to tweak 2 things:
1) start up (both hot & cold) - no biggie for the tuner
2) on/off throttle changes are a bit abrasive - no biggie for the tuner as well.

I am so happy to have the car back. It is nothing like I remember..but I mean this in the best way possible. The acceleration is insane. I cant get much grip in first thru 3rd gears when I nail it. Punching it on the highway is fun and the G-Forces are just what the Medic ordered. It's just crazy 60-100 in a second or two. Watching the road is key, so although I am tempted to watch the rpm's shoot up, I don't want to end this ride too soon...Know what I mean?

The car idles perfect and I have no Cel lights...woohoo.

The brakes were recently upgraded (Stoptechs) and they absolutely stop on a dime. Oh man, I got to tell you, I need the brakes to stop this monster.

Right now I am set to 15psi of boost and this gives 530rwhp. I still have the stock wastegate springs (7 psi) on board so the boost solenoid is controlling the rest (8 psi).
I have yet to upgrade the WG springs to the 1 bar (14 psi) springs to ease the workload on the solenoid for my higher boost settings which have yet to come. I'm having so much fun with 15 psi though.

The suspension is also new...completely.
I installed BC Coilovers and I am so glad I did. The D2's were too stiff for the NY crappy roads. The BC's are very much more compliant, while still giving me plenty of grip. I HIGHLY recommend the BC's. They are a great compromise. And my pregnant wife agrees it was a good move.

I also have the rear traction & lower link arms installed, as well as a new set of Topspeed A-arms for the front. I will need an alignment now that they have pretty much all settled into place.

In case I forgot to mention, I have yet to bring the car back...just trying to feel around for any more possible bugs in the tuning (if any).

But so far...so VERY good. Worth the wait.

I will also be getting the CAN Gauge controller as part of the PROEFI package I ordered to give me ultimate control over boost from the driver seat.

Thats about it for now, feel free to ask any questions about anything I failed to cover.

[BJMax]

I have been having so much FUN!!! The car performs very well. VERY FAST! The fastest car I've ever owned without a doubt.
The open dumps scare everyone on the road.
It takes about 2 seconds to build enough boost to just blaze right past anyone while already going 60 mph on the highway.
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Once the tuning is complete. Problem is...I don't want to go back...LOL
I'm having so much fun. So many people come up to me..."So, How much HP are you making?" I'm like, I don't know. Then they say, I bet I could take you...I turn around and this guy is driving a Jetta. "Its got great top end. I'm like "yeah, your probably right," smile and walk away.

I got Civic guys coming up to me on the highway, and the list doesn't stop. This is going to be a fun summer.-
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You don't even know its there. The car runs like stock...thats the best part. No engine cel lights and the performance is seamless and smooth. All the kinks have been worked out except for start up, but that is not a problem. I just have to give the car back to the tuner to correct...no biggie. I've been spending so much time enjoying the car, I just don't want to give it back. My bad! Doing some work on my car right now...adding some gauges and stuff.

If you are thinking about a standalone, go for it. I believe it is the least expensive standalone and just as capable as the much more expensive ones.
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No I never posted up videos. Glad you reminded me. Unfortunately I will have to wait 2 weeks to get the car back from the body shop. I am getting a total makeover. Tired of the same old look. Everything is being changed on the outside down to the roof.
Wish I video'd just before dropping her off. Car is like a freight train.
Currently tuned for 15 psi and 580rwhp. (Low Boost) Muhaha Muhahaha!!!! (Mid Boost -->19 psi - 640rwhp...)and that is the rough tune. Final tune yet to come. Results should get even better.

And I haven't even tuned for Methanol yet. Muhahaha Muhahaha
I took one of my good friends on a quick spirited run the other day and his exact words..."DAMN Randy!!! that car is dangerous!!!" When the tires broke loose in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd he said the car felt like it was floating!
This is by far the most Powerful car I have ever owned let alone driven!!!

Guess I have to invest in some rubber. Although my tires barely have 3K miles, I think they are dried and old'ish. Kind of like lost their grip. Its either that, or the latest tune is just that much more powerful, they can't hold up. Looking into the Toyo R888's or suitable alternative. Anyone have any ideas for new sticky tires, please chime in.
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Latest Updates include:
Brain Crower Stage 3 Cams.
CAN Gauge for ProEFI, however have to wait to get software installed to make it work.
Oil Catch Can installed.
Cusco LSD set to 80% Grinds a bunch - Have yet to break it in properly.
Stage 2 DSS Axles - don't even know that they are there. But should provide a little insurance at the track.
Solid Diff mount at rear of Differential. Now rear Diff is totally solid mounted. No more rubber bushings.
Audio upgrades to include spare monitor in cubby box for navigation screen.
Navigation, Bluetooth, and Satellite Radio on hand to be installed as soon as car makes it back from body shop.
Probably forgetting more but that enough for now.